We are all packed for a flight to Venice tomorrow. A city that I have wanted to visit for a long time. From there, we will be boarding a cruise ship, something Lily was hoping to do this year. It's not quite the Dilbar, but we did upgrade to a room with a balcony as part of a great last minute deal, so we are pretty pleased about that.
As there is no wifi on the boat, posting won't be possible until we get back to Antibes. Looking forward to filling you in on our adventures then.
Wednesday, November 23, 2016
Tuesday, November 15, 2016
Eze and the Nietzsche Trail
A trip to Eze. The second attempt.
We stepped off the train at Eze-sur-Mer fully prepared to hike up to this hilltop medieval village. No relying on the 83 bus and its schedule this time around.
The trail that would lead us up the 400 metres of elevation to our destination is named after the German philosopher, Friedrich Nietzsche. He spent time in this area in the late 1880's in his search for a climate that would ease his considerable health problems. There are a number of plaques along the path dedicated to Nietzsche and some of his writing. Allegedly, it was during his daily walks on this old mule path that he found inspiration for the third part of his novel "Thus Spoke Zarathustra".
The path started off paved, then alternated between rocky paths and steps. It is a pretty steady climb, but we took our time and stopped for a snack and water.
It was such a gorgeous November day and it didn't take us long to shed our jackets. In fact, we would have been more comfortable in shorts for the climb, it was that warm! Hiking this trail in the high season, I can imagine, would be a slightly different experience with the summer heat and the larger crowds. As it was, apart from two small groups we passed on their descent, we only shared the path with chirping birds and the breeze.
A short video to give you a sense of what a peaceful walk it was.
Grace, especially, was relieved to have the town come into view. She was starting to doubt the path was actually leading anywhere.
One hour and twenty minutes later, we arrived at the postern, the back entrance to the medieval town, that had a double door, two towers and, in the days of the House of Savoy rule, a drawbridge. The historical plaque, one of many posted around the town, explained that the defence systems at this entrance weren't adequate enough to hold back the armies of François 1 and his Turkish ally, Suleiman the Magnificent, in 1543.
On this day, it was a picturesque first taste of the historical town we were entering.
The medieval streets were, as expected, very narrow which helped create shady areas to combat the summer heat long before the days of air conditioning. Centuries ago, the lower levels of these homes would have been cellars (lots of wine and olive oil stored) or sheds for their goats, sheep and mules.
It didn't appear that there were many residences now within these walls. We saw numerous galleries and boutiques, many of which were closed due to it being the off-season. No worries for us. It felt like a real bonus not having to deal with throngs of fellow tourists
We were, however, hoping that there would be something open so we could sit down for a drink. We lucked out at the Deli' Salad Bar and Olive Oil Shop where we each had a drink and received some olives from Nice soaking in basil olive oil to enjoy as well.
I've momentarily had to stop typing to think about that basil olive oil. I've decided that if I ever hike the Nietzsche trail again, buying a bottle of it will be my reward. Come to think of it, perhaps that's how I would get Grace up that trail with me again. She said she could have drunk the stuff!
The server was very kind, but a little surprised to see us arrive with our bare arms. He, in contrast, was definitely dressed for an autumn day; several layers and a scarf. I explained that we had just climbed the hill. Barry explained that we were Canadian. He smiled and responded he was dressed as a Frenchman, and a Frenchman from the Côte d'Azur at that.
Out of the sun and at rest, we did cool down even under the little heaters he had directed on us.
A mere ten-metre walk from our coffee break was the entrance to the Jardin Exotique. The light was so beautiful at that time in the afternoon, as were the views.
There was a castle right on the top of this present day exotic garden that dated back to the second half of the 12th century when the village was still part of the kingdom of Provence. However, in 1706 during the war of the succession of Spain, it met the same demise as the castle at Nice: torn down by the army of Louis XIV.
All in all a beautiful day.
Only one important decision left to end this outing: how to get back down to sea level and the train station. The girls decided that they really didn't want to hike it. I have to admit that Barry and I didn't fight them too hard on this call. However, that left us having to rely on that bus number 83 to take us back down the hill.
I am happy to report that this finger crossing made all the difference. We were on the bus heading downhill after a mere twenty minutes wait.
We stepped off the train at Eze-sur-Mer fully prepared to hike up to this hilltop medieval village. No relying on the 83 bus and its schedule this time around.
 |
| The girls reenacting, with a little flair, our experience of waiting at this bus stop a few days ago. |
The trail that would lead us up the 400 metres of elevation to our destination is named after the German philosopher, Friedrich Nietzsche. He spent time in this area in the late 1880's in his search for a climate that would ease his considerable health problems. There are a number of plaques along the path dedicated to Nietzsche and some of his writing. Allegedly, it was during his daily walks on this old mule path that he found inspiration for the third part of his novel "Thus Spoke Zarathustra".
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| At the bottom of the Nietzsche Trail. |
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| And, just in case there was any doubt we were heading in the right direction. |
The path started off paved, then alternated between rocky paths and steps. It is a pretty steady climb, but we took our time and stopped for a snack and water.
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| Only minutes into our hike with our destination clearly in view. |
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| "This splendid plenitude of light has on me, a miraculous action". I have to agree with Nietzsche on that one. |
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| We are about half way up here. The girls are being hilarious and doing their best to hide from me yet another information board with which they claim I am 'obsessed'. They are draped over some writings of Nietzsche. |
It was such a gorgeous November day and it didn't take us long to shed our jackets. In fact, we would have been more comfortable in shorts for the climb, it was that warm! Hiking this trail in the high season, I can imagine, would be a slightly different experience with the summer heat and the larger crowds. As it was, apart from two small groups we passed on their descent, we only shared the path with chirping birds and the breeze.
A short video to give you a sense of what a peaceful walk it was.
 |
| The view of the village of Eze from the upper part of the trail |
One hour and twenty minutes later, we arrived at the postern, the back entrance to the medieval town, that had a double door, two towers and, in the days of the House of Savoy rule, a drawbridge. The historical plaque, one of many posted around the town, explained that the defence systems at this entrance weren't adequate enough to hold back the armies of François 1 and his Turkish ally, Suleiman the Magnificent, in 1543.
On this day, it was a picturesque first taste of the historical town we were entering.
 |
| The view from the inside of the back entryway into the village. |
The medieval streets were, as expected, very narrow which helped create shady areas to combat the summer heat long before the days of air conditioning. Centuries ago, the lower levels of these homes would have been cellars (lots of wine and olive oil stored) or sheds for their goats, sheep and mules.
It didn't appear that there were many residences now within these walls. We saw numerous galleries and boutiques, many of which were closed due to it being the off-season. No worries for us. It felt like a real bonus not having to deal with throngs of fellow tourists
We were, however, hoping that there would be something open so we could sit down for a drink. We lucked out at the Deli' Salad Bar and Olive Oil Shop where we each had a drink and received some olives from Nice soaking in basil olive oil to enjoy as well.
I've momentarily had to stop typing to think about that basil olive oil. I've decided that if I ever hike the Nietzsche trail again, buying a bottle of it will be my reward. Come to think of it, perhaps that's how I would get Grace up that trail with me again. She said she could have drunk the stuff!
The server was very kind, but a little surprised to see us arrive with our bare arms. He, in contrast, was definitely dressed for an autumn day; several layers and a scarf. I explained that we had just climbed the hill. Barry explained that we were Canadian. He smiled and responded he was dressed as a Frenchman, and a Frenchman from the Côte d'Azur at that.
Out of the sun and at rest, we did cool down even under the little heaters he had directed on us.
 |
| Barry and Grace at the Deli' Salad Bar and Olive Oil Shop. I loved the Canadian fall colour display in the background. |
A mere ten-metre walk from our coffee break was the entrance to the Jardin Exotique. The light was so beautiful at that time in the afternoon, as were the views.
 |
| Le jardin exotique |
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| From this view, you can make out the bell of the Chapelle de la Sainte-Croix that dates back to the early 14th century. |
There was a castle right on the top of this present day exotic garden that dated back to the second half of the 12th century when the village was still part of the kingdom of Provence. However, in 1706 during the war of the succession of Spain, it met the same demise as the castle at Nice: torn down by the army of Louis XIV.
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| A painting from when the castle still sat above the village. |
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| Very little is left of it now. |
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| Here is the panoramic view looking west of the village of Eze, with the "Grande Corniche" in the background. It is in the area off to the left that evidence of the most ancient human occupation in Eze was found, dating back to 220 BCE. A group called the Celto-Ligurians. In the forefront is the tower of the Church of Notre Dame de l'Assomption built in 1764. |
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| And finally, the panorama looking out to the sea showing just how high we climbed. |
All in all a beautiful day.
Only one important decision left to end this outing: how to get back down to sea level and the train station. The girls decided that they really didn't want to hike it. I have to admit that Barry and I didn't fight them too hard on this call. However, that left us having to rely on that bus number 83 to take us back down the hill.
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| Seriously hoping the bus shows to save us the hike down! |
I am happy to report that this finger crossing made all the difference. We were on the bus heading downhill after a mere twenty minutes wait.
Thursday, November 10, 2016
Villefranche-sur-Mer
They are hard to make out in the photo below, but there are buildings on the rocky hilltop. In fact, there is a whole medieval town just out of view on that hilltop. It is the village of Eze, and it was our destination last Sunday.
However, what is that saying about best-laid plans?
We had packed a lunch, road the train for 45 minutes and then walked to the bus station mere steps from the train station at Eze-sur-Mer. The bus schedule read that the bus to Eze village on high was due at 12:25pm, a mere seven-minute wait. What timing, we thought. Not long to wait, we thought.
12:25pm arrived. The bus did not.
We waited and we waited.
We then noticed this sign and we laughed. It seemed that we hadn't been the only visitors to find the bus schedule a little lacking in accuracy.
We decided it we were going to see Eze, we would not depend on the number 83 bus and it's dubious schedule . We would climb up to it on foot.
But, on another day. We weren't geared up for a hike.
Instead, we hopped back on the train to the spend the day in the charming coastal town of Villefranche-sur-Mer. The town's largest beach, the Plage des Marinières, is located directly below the train tracks. The girls enjoyed watching one boy, impervious to the brisk fall day, getting knocked over again and again in the waves as his Dad stood watch. We definitely want to return for a beach day, but will wait until spring and a tad warmer weather.
We made the brief climb to the Citadelle St. Elme. Its construction began in 1554, under the orders of the Duke of Savoy, Emmanuel Philibert, after the city was destroyed by Franco-Turkish armies in 1543. Normally. visitors are allowed into the 7.5 acres grounds, but it is closed for the whole month of November, so I will have to return another month for a look around.
However, what is that saying about best-laid plans?
We had packed a lunch, road the train for 45 minutes and then walked to the bus station mere steps from the train station at Eze-sur-Mer. The bus schedule read that the bus to Eze village on high was due at 12:25pm, a mere seven-minute wait. What timing, we thought. Not long to wait, we thought.
12:25pm arrived. The bus did not.
We waited and we waited.
We then noticed this sign and we laughed. It seemed that we hadn't been the only visitors to find the bus schedule a little lacking in accuracy.
 | |
| The french says, "Fed up.!!! Useless schedule!!! No bus is coming! Can't translate the Italian, but we're pretty sure some Italian tourists waited 2 hours without a bus arriving. |
We decided it we were going to see Eze, we would not depend on the number 83 bus and it's dubious schedule . We would climb up to it on foot.
But, on another day. We weren't geared up for a hike.
Instead, we hopped back on the train to the spend the day in the charming coastal town of Villefranche-sur-Mer. The town's largest beach, the Plage des Marinières, is located directly below the train tracks. The girls enjoyed watching one boy, impervious to the brisk fall day, getting knocked over again and again in the waves as his Dad stood watch. We definitely want to return for a beach day, but will wait until spring and a tad warmer weather.
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| The Plage des Marinières at Villefranche-sur-Mer as seen from the train station. |
We strolled down the waterfront, the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet, below the old town. Grace and Lily played chicken with the waves that were washing up along the sidewalk. The sea definitely got the best of them both. Strangely, they both seemed very entertained about walking around town with wet runners.
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| Posing along the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet, looking back towards the Plage des Marinières |
We headed away from the water and up into the streets of the old town.
Immediately after taking the photo below, I briefly lost my family. There was a sign posted on the building I had missed and had to return to read it. Barry and the kids walked on.
Immediately after taking the photo below, I briefly lost my family. There was a sign posted on the building I had missed and had to return to read it. Barry and the kids walked on.
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| And to think I almost sauntered right by this interesting historical note. |
I caught up with the others at the Place Amélie Pollonais just as the sun broke through, warming us up and drying out four wet feet. We casually browsed the wares, mostly antiques, being sold at the Sunday marché à la brocante.
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| Marché à la brocante in the Place Amélie Pollonais |
We made the brief climb to the Citadelle St. Elme. Its construction began in 1554, under the orders of the Duke of Savoy, Emmanuel Philibert, after the city was destroyed by Franco-Turkish armies in 1543. Normally. visitors are allowed into the 7.5 acres grounds, but it is closed for the whole month of November, so I will have to return another month for a look around.
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| La Citadelle St. Elme |
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| View of the old town from the citadel. The sun had brought out all the colours. |
Not the visit we had planned, but a great day, nonetheless.
Next, we tackle the climb to Eze.
Friday, November 4, 2016
A (Brief) Tale of Two Cities
The long term weather reports, from earlier this week, for two important cities in our lives.
We all have our little collection of things we miss from home. In Lily's, rainy days in our house surrounded by the forest makes the list. She misses the rain.
As for me, I couldn't be happier with Antibes' run of sunny fall days.
We all have our little collection of things we miss from home. In Lily's, rainy days in our house surrounded by the forest makes the list. She misses the rain.
As for me, I couldn't be happier with Antibes' run of sunny fall days.
Wednesday, November 2, 2016
Hallowe'en on the Côte d'Azur
I woke up on the 31st thinking about my teacher friends back in Canada.
It was a Monday.
And, it was Hallowe'en Day.
As I am writing this post, they are all just starting work 'the day after' with their groups of sleep-deprived and sugar laden students. I continue to think of them. As they say here in France; "Bon courage."
Neither Barry nor I would say we were too remorseful about missing Hallowe'en this year, but we recognized that it's a tough day to miss out on as a Canadian youngster. We started our day reminiscing with the girls about our Hallowe'en six years ago in Avignon. Barry and I had thought the best way to create a bit of Hallowe'en spirit for our young daughters was to each go in a bedroom with a bag of candy so the girls could 'trick or treat' back and forth. We tried very hard to make it interesting by putting our acting skills to the test and pretending to be different people every time they came back to our door. However, we all sort of agreed. It was a bit sad.
This October 31st, Lily was in a mood to just stay in bed and read, but we decided we should go out and see something new: the city of Cannes. On the walk to the train station, we were surprised to see some children dressed up and going into all the stores to ask for candy. (French schools are closed for two weeks of holidays this time of the year!) It actually felt a bit like Hallowe'en out and about in this French city.
Check out the amazing Hallowe'en display at 'our' Jean Luc Pelé Patisserie!
This did not happen in Avignon. We were totally unprepared. Lily started thinking hard about a last minute costume. She was wearing black and grey. Maybe a cat?
Eight minutes by train and we were in Cannes. We arrived without any plans, but it was a beautiful day to just wander and explore on a whim.
An enjoyable day, but certainly not a replacement for the fun back home. Grace and Lily are already discussing plans to go big for Hallowe'en 2017.
It was a Monday.
And, it was Hallowe'en Day.
As I am writing this post, they are all just starting work 'the day after' with their groups of sleep-deprived and sugar laden students. I continue to think of them. As they say here in France; "Bon courage."
Neither Barry nor I would say we were too remorseful about missing Hallowe'en this year, but we recognized that it's a tough day to miss out on as a Canadian youngster. We started our day reminiscing with the girls about our Hallowe'en six years ago in Avignon. Barry and I had thought the best way to create a bit of Hallowe'en spirit for our young daughters was to each go in a bedroom with a bag of candy so the girls could 'trick or treat' back and forth. We tried very hard to make it interesting by putting our acting skills to the test and pretending to be different people every time they came back to our door. However, we all sort of agreed. It was a bit sad.
This October 31st, Lily was in a mood to just stay in bed and read, but we decided we should go out and see something new: the city of Cannes. On the walk to the train station, we were surprised to see some children dressed up and going into all the stores to ask for candy. (French schools are closed for two weeks of holidays this time of the year!) It actually felt a bit like Hallowe'en out and about in this French city.
Check out the amazing Hallowe'en display at 'our' Jean Luc Pelé Patisserie!
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| The Einstein Brains, I think, were my favourite. |
Eight minutes by train and we were in Cannes. We arrived without any plans, but it was a beautiful day to just wander and explore on a whim.
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| A chocolate shop in Cannes with another great Hallowe'en display |
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| This time, we did more than just window shop. |
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| Ladurée macaroons. Lily was starting to think maybe this Hallowe'en wasn't a write off! |
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| On the stairs of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès, the main venue for the Cannes Film Festival that turns this city into a hot spot for film stars and buffs every May. With our last minute travel plans, they hadn't had time to roll out the red carpet for us. (Notez, bien! Lily now has cat ears and a tail thanks to a good ol' Claires store that we happened upon.) |
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| View from the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès |
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| It was fun to check out the stars' hand prints on the Allée des Stars. The girls were excited to find Meryl Streep's due to "Mama Mia" and "Into the Woods"... |
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| ...and, Angelina Jolie's known, to our girls, for her role in "Malificent". |
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| All trains to Antibes had been unexpectedly cancelled that afternoon. A sunny bus ride took three times as long as the train to get us home, but luckily, still in enough time for Grace to make it to her dance class. |
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| And for Lily to do a little trick or treating Southern France style. Here, Lily has just picked up a candy from a bartender. |
An enjoyable day, but certainly not a replacement for the fun back home. Grace and Lily are already discussing plans to go big for Hallowe'en 2017.
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