Break from the Bell: A First Evening in Genoa

Last time we were in Europe, our Italian visits were some real highlights for us. With stops in Rome, Florence, Pisa and Sedona, how could they not be?

For this year, we had Venice and Naples on our to-visit in Italy wish list, but I have to admit that Genoa wasn't on our radar until we started looking into an Italian destination only a short train ride away. Once we read that the food specialties of this region are pesto and focaccio bread, train tickets were bought and an apartment was rented.

After 4.5 hours of travel time, including a stop-over in Ventimiglia to change trains, we arrived in Genoa.


The girls were impressed with our private train compartment for the Ventimiglia to Genoa leg of our journey.

Paola, the thoughtful woman whose apartment we were renting, had a snack waiting for the girls upon arrival that they dug into right away. Nutella, for Lily, was the perfect welcome.

After multiple helpings of crunchy Italian toast crackers with Nutella, we were ready to go and explore. Using a photo-copied, highlighted map from Paola to guide us, we walked down the hill toward the old town and its street of palaces, Via Garibaldi. On the way, we found an elevator, that is part of the transit system, to take us down the rest of the way to the old city. Before hopping on, we enjoyed the great views of the city below us.

Looking down towards old town. You can see several of the huge palaces, where we were headed, in the forefront

The street Via Garibaldi is an UNESCO World Heritage Site in Genoa that is lined with many palaces dating back to the 16th century, when the wealthiest and most powerful among the Genoese aristocracy decided to create a single setting for their lavish homes. We had serendipitously arrived during the "Rolli Days" event (referencing the official list ("rolli") of these palaces that was used, back in the day, to decide which noble family's turn it was to host the next visiting state dignitary). This meant we had access to a good number of these palaces free of charge.

15-16 ottobre: Rolli Days in Genova

Palazzo Tursi, that has served as Genoa's Town Hall since 1848

While at the Palazzo Tursi, we popped into a concert featuring students of Roberta Ivernizzi's master class singing pieces from the 16th century accompanied by a cellist and harpsichordist, .

By this time, the girls' nutella snack was wearing off. Here's a little tip for visitors finding themselves with two hungry children on the Via Garibaldi: perhaps don't wander down the Medieval alleyways (caruggi) of Genoa's old town as evening falls on a Sunday. I've enhanced the photo below for your viewing pleasure, but night was falling and the further we walked into the belly of the caruggi, the emptier the streets became with all shops and eateries closed up. As Grace later said, "All there was was the odd person sitting on the street smoking."

We were mere steps from the street of palaces, heading down the alleyways of Genoa's medieval old town.

Barry was keen to push through this maze, to the restaurants he was sure were somewhere on the other side. However, he found himself with a bit of a mutiny on his hands. So, we turned and headed back from where we came to ask at the tourist office where we could eat. She directed us to Genoa's largest square, the Piazza de Ferrari.

The carrugi was quickly forgotten and interest was instantly piqued upon seeing 18 (Grace counted) white tents set up around the Piazza de Ferrari. Again, luck was on Lily's side as we had stumbled across a chocolate festival. Talk about a frown being turned upside down!

Some of the chocolate tents set up in the Piazza de Ferrari, with Genoa's opera house in the background.

Lily taking a time out by the Agora Fountain to contemplate which chocolate treats she will purchase. Lots to think about with so many tempting options!

With Lily continuing to narrow down her chocolate wish list, we sat down in a quaint Italian café for some supper. Grace was very pleased with her pesto lasagna.